Traverser le quartier chinois
Four paifang gates, six streets, and the sharpest shift in Montreal: you come through the Gauchetière gate straight out of Old Montreal and the register changes at once — grey stone giving way to red signage, fresh tofu, red bean pastries and bánh mì counters. The district is small, dense and under constant real estate pressure; the family businesses holding on since the 1980s carry real documentary weight. Twenty minutes to cross it, an hour to understand it. It is also the foot of Saint-Laurent boulevard: from here the Main climbs north and never stops.
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