town of fishers and cotton traders, Shanghai opened to foreign trade in 1842. The International Settlement and the French Concession built banks, hotels and villas: by the 1930s it was Asia’s most cosmopolitan city, the capital of Chinese jazz and cinema.
Since the 1990s, Pudong, once fields and warehouses, has filled with skyscrapers. Yet Shanghai is still a city of lilong, lanes of brick houses, small neighbourhood restaurants and parks where people dance and play cards from early morning.

