apital of the Joseon dynasty from 1394, Seoul grew around its palaces, including Gyeongbokgung, built in 1395, and walls that wind across the mountains. Devastated during the Korean War, the city was reborn within a few decades as one of the world’s most connected metropolises.
Seoul is best lived neighbourhood by neighbourhood: the traditional houses of Bukchon, Hongdae’s student scene, Seongsu’s industrial-style cafés, Gangnam’s towers. In between, the Han River offers parks and evening picnics, and the mountains offer hikes a few subway stops away.