Sarajevo

Bosnian is the everyday language, written in Latin and sometimes Cyrillic script. Young people often speak English; a few words (“hvala”, thank you) go down well.

The currency is the convertible mark (BAM, KM). Cards are accepted in many places, but cash is still useful at the bazaar and in small restaurants. Round up the bill by about 10%.

The centre is walkable. The tram runs along the river from the Baščaršija to the west of the city; buy your ticket at a kiosk or from the driver and validate it on board.

Conditions vary by street, time and situation. Use these pointers to plan your journeys.

The airport is about twenty minutes from the centre. Shuttles and taxis: check times and fares on the airport website and agree a price before getting into an unmetered taxi.

May–June and September–October are ideal. Summer is hot; winter cold and snowy, with the ski slopes of Jahorina and Bjelašnica under an hour away.

The legal age is 18. Alcohol is served in most bars, though not everywhere in the Baščaršija. To visit a mosque, cover shoulders and knees; women cover their hair.

European emergency number: 112. Police: 122. Fire: 123. Ambulance: 124.

Our suggestion: two to three days, plus a day trip to Mostar if you have time. Guided tours on the siege help you understand the city; choose a recommended local guide.