Paris-style avenues, historic cafés, tango in the milongas and steaks grilled on the parrilla. Buenos Aires lives late: dinner at 10pm and dancing until dawn.
ounded first in 1536 and then for good in 1580 on the Río de la Plata, Buenos Aires became in the 19th century the capital of a country enriched by cattle and wheat. Millions of immigrants, mostly Italian and Spanish, arrived, and the city filled with Paris-inspired buildings.
Tango was born in the working-class districts by the port and is now on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list. Porteños, as locals are called, have kept their love of cafés, bookshops, football and long conversations.
Find your bearings
For a pleasant first stay: parks, restaurants, bars and the shops of Palermo Soho and Hollywood. Safe and lively, but some distance from the historic centre.
For Recoleta Cemetery, museums and elegant buildings. Calm, upmarket and well located.
For cobbles, antique shops, the Sunday fair and tango. Full of charm; stay alert at night on empty streets.
For the colourful houses of Caminito and the Boca Juniors stadium. Visit by day and stay within the tourist area.
A first visit
A starting point to adapt to the weather, your energy and opening hours.
Morning at Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosada, then coffee at Café Tortoni. Afternoon in San Telmo and Puerto Madero. In the evening, a milonga or a tango show.
Morning at Recoleta Cemetery and the Museum of Fine Arts. Afternoon in Palermo’s parks and the Japanese Garden. Dinner at a Palermo parrilla, around 10pm.
