
The whole world on a mountainside
Along Côte-des-Neiges Road, Filipino grocery stores sit next to Sri Lankan restaurants, Russian cafés and Jewish bakeries. Students, newly arrived families, hospital workers: everyone crosses paths on the 165 bus. Above the hubbub, the Oratory’s dome floats like a fixed landmark. This is the arrival neighbourhood par excellence, and it draws from that an energy few places can match.
A former village of tanners and farmers on the road that skirted the mountain, Côte-des-Neiges was transformed in the 20th century by the arrival of the Université de Montréal, the major hospitals and successive waves of immigration from everywhere. Brother André, doorman at Collège Notre-Dame, launched the construction of Saint Joseph’s Oratory here — a decades-long project that became a major pilgrimage site. Today the neighbourhood ranks among the most multiethnic in the country.